When the sun is beating down and humidity is at an all-time high, it can be hard to find that go-to outfit that will keep you looking chic and feeling cool. Luckily, Mood’s latest free pattern, the Rosalie Shirt Dress, is the perfect basic shirtdress for summer. Going to work? The Rosalie. Going to the zoo? The Rosalie. Sleeping? Okay, maybe not the Rosalie, but you get the picture. It’s a gorgeous, simple design that pairs well with a variety of staple summer fabrics, including linen, chambray, or poplin. Plus, it’s an ideal pattern for beginners to sharpen their sewing skills and produce something that you’ll wear over and over. Now, let’s find out how to make this shirt dress so you can get out there and live your best summer life!
Purchase Materials Used Below:
- 4 yards of Minerva Heathered Blue Heron Lightweight Linen Chambray
- 0.5 yards of Heathered Black Warp Knitting Fusible Interfacing
- 12 Lily White and Winter White Swirl 4-Hole Plastic Shirt Buttons
- 1 spool of 227 Dusted Baby Blue 500m Gutermann Sew All Thread
- MDF312– The Rosalie Shirt Dress Free Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
Alternative Recommended Fabrics:
Cut out all pattern pieces from your fashion fabric. Once you have all your pattern pieces cut, we will focus on the preparation.
We will cut fusible for the under collar, 1 collarstand, 2 placket, and 2 belt pieces.
When cutting the fusible, cut using the original pattern. Once cut, cut again around the seam allowance, trimming between ⅜ – ½”. By doing this, you will allow the fabric to retain its original stretch, particularly useful when sewing curves. This will avoid any extra weight or bulk around the seam allowance, as well as helping the feed dog on your sewing machine to feed a piece that is fused and not fused. In this case, a collar is a good example, as you will see below.
While the iron is still hot from fusing your pattern pieces, take advantage and press the hem of the sleeve, following your notches.
Now, the sewing can begin. Join the under collars together and press. Since our undercollar was cut on the bias, we will place the top collar on top and allow your machine’s feeder to feed the undercollar. This will allow both collars to be sewn evenly.
Before turning over the collar, we will sew a top stitch of ⅛ on the undercollar side. While sewing, make sure the top and bottom seam allowances are facing the undercollar side. This will ensure your seam allowance faces slightly towards the back when you are pressing. I begin that stitch 2” away from the corners, as seen below.
Turn over the collar and make sure to clip your corners for a sharper point. Optional: Sew an edge stitch around the whole collar for stitching detail.
Sew a basting stitch at the bottom where we will be joining collar stand and collar.
Sew collar stand and collar together. Place the collar stand without fusible on the bottom for easier sewing. Then, place the collar and the fused collar stand on top. Sew 3/8″, only sewing the area where they will be joining.
On the collar stand that will be seen inside of your garment, iron a ⅜” hem. This step will help when closing the collar stand on the inside of the garment. Optional: If you have trouble with ironing, sew a basting stitch as a guide.
Sew front darts.
Iron darts towards the hem.
Sew placket to the front at 3/8″.
Iron seams towards the center of the placket. On the other side of the placket, iron ⅜” towards the center of the placket. This step will help close your center front.
Iron center front.
Sew an edge stitch at the seam where front and placket meet.
Sew an edge stitch or overlock the hemline of the sleeve, leaving 1.5-2” unsewn on both ends. This will help when closing the sleeve.
Sew center back together, ironing all seam allowances towards one side.
Sew front and back shoulder seams.
Optional: Sew an edge stitch on the seam allowances for stitch details.
Sew collar stand to the neckline.
If possible, iron seams into the collar stand. Using a sleeve board will make this step easier. Pin the other side of the collar stand, so that we may close the collar stand, Make sure your edges are slightly covering the stitches.
On the right side of the garment, sew an edge stitch all around. Since we pinned the collar stands on the wrong side of the garment, all stitches will match.
Sew pockets onto the garment, and overlock the side seams.
Sew sleeve sides, closing the opening left previously.
Sew sleeve to the garment.
Sew a ⅜” rolled hem at the bottom of the garment. You may do anywhere between a ⅜- 1.5” rolled hem, depending on your measurements. You can also serge the edge and hem a ⅜-¾ hem, but a rolled hem at ⅜ provides ease when sewing. Most importantly, make sure the dress is at the desired length before stitching.
At the center of the collar stand mark and sew button hole horizontally.
Mark from the edge of the collar stand down 1.75” to begin your first button hole on the placket.
After your first mark, mark each one 3” away.
For this garment, 11 buttons holes were placed on the placket, and one on the collar.
Sew seam allowances for the sash/fabric belt, at ⅜ “. Remember to leave a 2” opening to flip inside out. Optional: Edge stitch for detail.
